This week I’ll be doing a double feature covering epsisodes 8 and 9 of Treme, while focusing primarily upon the former.

Episode 8 takes us into Mardi Gras day, the venerable holiday of head-splitting hangovers imbued with an overall sense of shame at the debauchery of the past week all while maintaining the sense of being a last hurrah before the Lenten period of repentance. Relatively little happens plot-wise in this episode although the writers take the opportunity to pack it full of traditional Mardi Gras references that at their best are relevant and informative and at worst sound a little tired.

Episode 9 marks the convergence of the paths of character Creighton Bernette and his real-life inspiration: disenfranchised blogger and New Orleans advocate – Ashley Morris. Ashley is the inspiration for Creighton’s Youtube rants and his suicide in the aftermath of Katrina leaves him mourned by many and establish him as an icon of the recovery movement.

Here are these two weeks Locals Guides:

The City

Lakeview – The man who talks to Sonny and Annie at their street performance in Jackson Square mentions that he is from Lakeview, a neighborhood on the other side of City Park from Mid City at the Southern border of Lake Ponchartrain. Many Lakeview homes were flooded when the Lake waters rose and spilled into the city. Lakeview is about as close to a suburb as you are likely to find in New Orleans aside from Metairie but its long history and the culture of its residents allow it to retain a unique sense of authenticity that is conspicuously lacking in the suburban subdivisions of other parts of the country.

Milenburg – Creighton makes a reference to an old New Orleans Red Light District – Milenburg. Now the area known as Lake Terrace/Lake Oaks, this neighborhood out by the lake used to be known as a haven for all sorts of debauchery.

Storyville – A later incarnation of the same sort of neighborhood as Milenburg, Storyville – New Orleans most notorious Red Light District eventually had to be shut down during WWII due to pressure from the US military due to the high incidences of venereal disease outbreaks amond military personnel stationed or on shore leave in the city.

City shuts down on Mardi Gras – There is frequent mention of a general distaste for work and routine on Mardi Gras Day in this episode, and in reality, a large portion of the city does completely shut down if not for the entire Carnival season then certainly Mardi Gras Day. Good luck finding a grocery store open during the week.

Flambeaux – A Mardi Gras tradition in which (traditionally African American) men carry flaming torches (originally wood and flame, now propane – powered) in parades and collect change scattered to them by parade-goers.

Endymion – Growing up in Mid City, I have to admit that Endymion is my favorite parade despite Creighton’s disdain for its ‘superkrewe’ status. Endymion is quite a spectacle. A notoriously slow-running and late parade, it boasts the largest double-decker floats of any Mardi Gras Krewe and often features celebrities among its krewe members (Drew Brees rode this past year). The year after Katrina, Endymion rolled Uptown for the first year due to the still largely vacant and devastated status of its traditional route in Mid City.

Gumbo – Gumbo is a staple of Creole cuisine and available nearly everywhere in New Orleans. It has particular significance during Mardi Gras when nearly every household has a pot ready. Its thick roux makes for excellent fortification against the often cold (strange for New Orleans’ climate) week of Mardi Gras and it is a quick meal to catch between bouts of parades and celebration.

Courts don’t open on Tuesday – Every New Orleanian knows that one of the worst things you can do is get yourself arrested during the week of Mardi Gras. The courts remain closed until after Mardi Gras day so you will find yourself stuck in overcrowded jail cells for the entire week if you are not careful.

Zulu – The traditionally all-African American parade krewe runs bright and early Mardi Gras day and never announces its intended route before the parade. It is known for throwing highly coveted decorated coconuts that serve as something of badges of honor among the Mardi Gras faithful.

Finding places to ‘use the facilities’ during Mardi Gras – It is nearly impossible to find a decent or reasonable place to ‘use the facilities’ during Mardi Gras and it is not uncommon for people to just wander into the nearest open apartment and hope not to be noticed among the crowd of people certain to be inside celebrating. Public urination is also one of the number one reasons for arrest during Mardi Gras.

The Isle of Denial – Creighton uses a term that was often used to refer to the Uptown and Garden District areas that remained largely unaffected by Katrina and were some of the first to return.

French Conversation – In case you were wondering, when Davis says ‘What’s up, my Negro?’ to his former WWOZ colleaguge, the conversation that ensues in French goes as follows:

-What did he say?
-He thinks he’s black.
-What a nutjob.

The Music

Howlin’ Wolf – This is the first time I can remember seeing a show take place at the Howlin’ Wolf on Treme. The Howlin’ Wolf is a long-standing music hub on S. Peters St. The venue takes its name from legendary blues singer, guitarist and harmonica player, Howlin’ Wolf Burnett.

Nevilles – Members of the Neville family make an appearance this episode. The Nevilles are another long-standing musical dynasty (the word family doesn’t really do it justice) in New Orleans.

Bob French – There is a brief scene of a set from Bob French, a legendary New Orleans drummer who has played with the likes of Fats Domino, leads the Tuxedo Jazz Band, and hosts a radio show on WWOZ.

Rebirth – Do Whatcha Wanna – This song became somewhat of a post-Katrina anthem in New Orleans used to mark any sort of celebration from Mardi Gras season to the successful Saints playoff run the year following the storm. To this day it is often played at just about every celebration involving more than two New Orleanians.

Professor Longhair – Go to the Mardi Gras – Probably the most recognizable and iconic Mardi Gras tune, Professor Longhair’s Mardi Gras Day is basically the theme song for Carnival Season.

Terence Blanchard – Blanchard makes another appearance this episode. The famed trumpeter and composer often does the scoring for Spike Lee’s films.

Le Bon Temps Roule- Delmond’s show this episode takes place in the club known as “The Bon Temps” (shortened from the Cajun saying Laissez Les Bon Temps Roulez – Let The Good Times Roll).

Jon Cleary – A famous blues pianist, Cleary is originally from England but moved to New Orleans about 30 years ago and has yet to leave. He has been known to play with Bonnie Raitt and also fronts the band The Absolute Monster Gentlemen.

The Food

King Cake – This is the second time we’ve seen Mardi Gras’ staple confectionery treat on the show. After Mardi Gras day King Cake’s become very difficult to find in the city until Carnival Season the following year.

Bacchanal – This unique place has appeared a few times on the show already. Part wine shop, bar, music venue, and deli, Bacchanal is a convergence of the best aspects of New Orleans in a comfortable setting.

-Patrick R

patrick@rabbitholeconsulting.com

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